I bought a “Fireproof Safe” from Costco for $300 to store my $50,000 jewelry collection. Thieves broke in. They used an angle grinder and cut the side of the safe open in 10 minutes. The safe was rated “RSC” (Residential Security Container). My insurance company asked, “Did you have a TL-15 rated safe as required by your warranty?”
Key Takeaways
- Safe Ratings Matter: “Fireproof” does not mean “Burglary Proof.” Cheap safes are just metal boxes. Insurers know this.
- The TL-15 / TL-30 Requirement: For high-value collections (>
50kor>50kor>100k), insurers often require a TL-15 (Tool Resistant for 15 mins) or TL-30 rated safe. If you used a cheap Sentry safe, you breached the warranty. - Bolted Down: Even a good safe is useless if they can carry it away. Most policies require the safe to be bolted to the floor.
- The Alarm Connection: For high limits, the safe often needs to be in a room with a monitored alarm.
The “Why” (The Trap)
The trap is “The Security Warranty.”
You got a discount for having a safe.
The fine print defined “Safe” as “UL Rated TL-15 or better.”
You bought a Costco safe (RSC rating).
Technically, you did not have a “Safe” as defined by the policy. The theft is not covered because you failed to meet the security conditions required for the discount.
The Investigation (My Analysis of Safe Ratings)
I checked the specs.
RSC (Residential Security Container)
- Test: 5 minutes with simple tools (hammer/screwdriver).
- Insurance View: Better than a drawer, but not a vault. Good for <$20k.
TL-15 / TL-30
- Test: 15/30 minutes with sledgehammers, drills, saws.
- Insurance View: A real safe. Required for >$100k collections.
Jewelers Mutual
- The Stance: They ask for the safe make/model. If you lie, it’s fraud. If you tell the truth, they adjust the premium. They rarely void coverage for a bad safe unless you explicitly promised a TL-15.
[IMAGE: Photo of a cheap home safe with the side panel cut open by an angle grinder]
Comparison Table
| Safe Rating | Cost of Safe | Security Level | Insurance Limit (Approx) |
| Sentry / RSC | $200 – $600 | Low | Up to $20k |
| TL-15 | $1,500+ | High | Up to $100k |
| TL-30 | $3,000+ | Very High | $250k+ |
Step-by-Step Action Plan
- Check the Sticker: Open your safe. Look for the UL label on the door. Does it say TL-15? Or RSC?
- Bolt It Down: Hire a handyman to bolt it to the concrete. This stops the “carry away” theft (most common).
- Update Insurance: Tell your agent exactly what safe you have. Don’t guess.
- Hide It: A safe in the master closet is the first place they look. Put it in the guest bedroom closet or basement.
FAQ
Does a gun safe count?
Most gun safes are RSC. They are big but thin metal.
Is a biometric lock better?
Convenient, but the lock mechanism isn’t the weak point—the metal walls are.
What if they force me to open it?
That is Robbery (not Burglary). Covered.