I was cruising at 65mph when my rear passenger tire exploded. The steel belts acted like a weed whacker, shredding the fiberglass fender, ripping out the plumbing lines above the wheel, and denting the siding. The repair bill for the RV body was $6,500. The tire replacement was $400. My insurance check? $6,000. They paid for the body, but not the tire.
Key Takeaways
- The Tire is Maintenance: Insurance considers the tire failure “wear and tear” or a “road hazard.” They generally do not pay for the tire itself.
- The Body is Collision: The damage the tire does to the RV is considered a “Collision” (or sometimes Comprehensive) claim. It is covered.
- The Deductible Trap: If the body damage is minor ($800) and your deductible is $1,000, you get nothing. Blowout damage must exceed the deductible significantly to be worth claiming.
- Old Tires = Denied Claim? If your tires were 10 years old and dry-rotted, the adjuster might try to deny the body damage claim citing “negligence” or “failure to maintain,” though this is rare if you have Collision coverage.
The “Why” (The Trap)
The trap is “Resultant Damage vs. Cause of Loss.”
The cause (the bad tire) is excluded. The result (the shredded fender) is covered.
However, some roadside assistance plans or “Tire & Wheel Protection” add-ons will pay for the tire itself. This is separate from your main insurance policy.
A major friction point: Fender Skirts. These plastic pieces are often hard to find for older RVs. Insurance will pay for the part, but if it takes 3 months to find, you are stuck waiting.
The Investigation (My Analysis of 3 Carriers)
I analyzed how they handle the “Boom.”
Progressive
- The Claim: They treat this as a standard Collision claim.
- The Deductible: You pay your collision deductible.
- The Tire: Not covered.
Good Sam (Tire & Wheel Protection)
- The Add-on: This is a separate product (warranty), not insurance.
- The Benefit: If you have this, they pay for the tire replacement and the service call.
- The Combo: Use the Tire Protection for the rubber, use the Insurance for the fender.
Geico
- The Warning: I’ve seen adjusters classify a blowout as an “At Fault” collision accident. Why? “Failure to control the vehicle” or “Failure to maintain tires.” This can raise your rates. Always argue it was “Road Debris” (Comprehensive) if possible/true.
[IMAGE: Photo of a shredded RV tire and a destroyed fiberglass wheel well with exposed wiring]
Comparison Table
| Item | Standard Auto Policy | Tire & Wheel Warranty |
| New Tire Cost | You Pay | Covered |
| Roadside Service Call | Covered (if Roadside added) | Covered |
| Wheel Well/Body Damage | Covered (less deductible) | Not Covered |
| Plumbing/Electrical Damage | Covered | Not Covered |
Step-by-Step Action Plan
- Inspect Dates Codes: Check your tire DOT dates. If they are >6 years old, replace them. Don’t give insurance a reason to argue negligence.
- Add “Tire Protection”: If you have expensive 22.5″ Class A tires ($600 each), buy a separate Tire & Wheel warranty (like from Coach-Net or Wholesale Warranties). It pays for itself in one blowout.
- Check for “Road Debris”: If you hit a piece of metal that caused the blowout, tell the adjuster. “I hit debris.” That is a Comprehensive claim (often lower deductible, no rate hike). If you just say “It blew out,” it’s Collision.
- Look Deeper: A blowout often damages things you can’t see (propane lines, brake lines). Do not just tape the fender. Get a mechanic to inspect the wheel well.
FAQ
Does the claim raise my rates?
If classified as Collision, likely yes. If classified as Comprehensive (road debris), likely no (or less).
What if the rim is bent?
Insurance usually covers the rim if it was damaged in the event, as the rim is part of the vehicle structure, unlike the “consumable” tire.
Can I limp the RV home?
If the blowout damaged the brake lines or propane, DO NOT DRIVE. Insurance will deny further damage if you drive an unsafe vehicle.