I applied for $250,000 in coverage for my coin and card collection. The underwriter emailed me back: “Please provide specs of your safe. We require a TL-15 or TRTL-30×6 rating for this value at home.” I looked at my $400 Tractor Supply gun safe (which is basically a filing cabinet) and realized I was non-compliant.
Key Takeaways
- RSC vs. TL Ratings: Most consumer safes are “Residential Security Containers” (RSC). They withstand a pry bar for 5 minutes. “TL-15” means it withstands professional tools for 15 minutes.
- Value Thresholds: Usually, collections under $50k or $100k don’t require specific safes. Once you hit $200k+, insurers demand professional hardware.
- The “Protective Safeguards” Warranty: If your policy gives you a discount for having a safe, and you don’t use it (or have the wrong one), they can deny a theft claim.
- Weight Matters: A TL-15 safe weighs 1,000+ lbs. You might need structural reinforcement to put it on a second floor.
The “Why” (Risk Mitigation)
If you hold a quarter-million dollars in a drywall box, you are a bank. You need a bank vault.
“Condition: It is a condition of this insurance that the insured maintains the protective safeguards listed in the schedule.”
The Investigation: Buying Security
I shopped for safes meeting insurer standards.
1. The Costco “Gun Safe”
- Rating: RSC (Level 1).
- Insurer View: Adequate for small collections (<$50k). Useless for high value. Easily breached with an angle grinder in 2 minutes.
2. Hollon / Amsec (TL-15)
- Rating: TL-15.
- Insurer View: The Gold Standard for home collections up to $500k.
- Cost: ~$2,500 – $4,000.
3. Bank Safe Deposit Box
- Rating: Highest.
- Insurer View: Cheap premiums, but access is limited. And banks don’t insure contents (you still need your own policy).
Comparison Table
| Safe Rating | Collection Value Supported (Est) | Cost of Safe |
| None / Shoebox | <$5,000 | $0 |
| RSC (Gun Safe) | $5k – $100k | $500 – $1,500 |
| TL-15 (Tool Resist) | $100k – $500k | $2,500+ |
| TL-30 | $500k+ | $5,000+ |
Step-by-Step Action Plan
- Check Your Endorsements: Look for “Protective Safeguards.” See if a specific safe rating is defined.
- Bolt It Down: Regardless of rating, bolt the safe to the concrete. A thief will just dolly a 300lb safe out of the house. Bolting it down often satisfies lower-tier requirements.
- Alarm the Safe: Put a vibration sensor (like Ring Alarm) inside the safe. It creates a “layered defense” insurers love.
FAQ
Can I build a safe room instead?
Yes, if the door is solid core/steel and has a deadbolt, insurers often treat it as a Class 2 or 3 vault.
[IMAGE: Graphic comparing the door thickness of an RSC safe vs a TL-15 safe]